How To Bring Your Pool Back Online After A Flood

May 12, 2022April 27, 2022 by admin

Bringing your pool back to a usable condition after a flood can seem a daunting task, but it is essential to do so before you use it.

What needs to be done will depend on the extent of the flooding and may mean no more than testing your water and making some adjustments to the chemicals in your pool or may be a major undertaking involving the replacement of your pump or other equipment.

Here is a brief rundown of some of the things you should do to get your pool up and running again.

The first thing you need to check is the safety of the pool and it’s surrounds and your pool equipment

Check to make sure your pool fence is still sound and meets the requirements. This is particularly important if children have access to the general area. Please ensure the gate is fully functional and still closes automatically. Make sure the surrounds/deck areas have been cleaned of any debris and tools If needed, scrub and hose down to get rid of any mud or slippery build-up.
No matter what the extent of the flooding, it is essential that you check the electricity supply to your pool area. This is especially the case if the area and equipment was inundated and under water. If the breaker switch on your circuit board has ‘tripped’, it would be prudent to get a licensed electrician to check the circuits for you. The electrician will also be able to check your pump and other electrical equipment to ensure they still work or have been damaged and need replacing.
Whilst checking the safety of your pool, also check the shell of the pool itself to see if it has been damaged and needs repairs. If needed, make the appropriate arrangements with a pool technician or pool builder. Also check your pool tools to see if they are damaged and need replacing. Check the skimmer and basket as well.
Now to start on the water. There will be numerous contaminants in your pool water so it would be a good idea to ‘shock’ your pool using a shock agent or hypochlorite. Be sure to follow the instructions on the label.

If your water turns clear or is only slightly cloudy, test your water and adjust the chemistry to get it into balance. The water will have phosphates in it. Phosphates are the result of organic matter breaking down and can lead to the water becoming cloudy.

The first step is to get rid of the phosphates by adding a phosphate remover as directed. This will normally make the water even more cloudy You can treat this by adding a clarifier as per the directions. Follow the instructions on vacuuming to waste if needed.

If your water is full of large debris, remove by hand or scoop it out using a net.
If the water has mud or other debris in suspension, you will need to floc the pool. Please ensure you follow the instructions on how to use the Flocculant, these are detailed on the packaging.

For the best results of flocculant, the pH of the pool water should be 8.2. Use Soda Ash to raise pH levels if required

After the sediment has settled, you will need to vacuum the waste. If you have a cartridge filter, remove the filter element. Make sure your pool has sufficient water in it as you will be pumping a large amount of water to waste.
You may need to repeat this process if not all debris in suspension was removed.
If the water ends up with a touch of green, it could be for two reasons.

It could be that you have a touch of green algae, and this can be tackled by adding an algaecide as per directions. If you used an algaecide previously, it may contain copper, and this can oxidize in the water and turn it green. This can be fixed by adding an appropriate metal remover according to directions.

If you used an algaecide previously, it may contain copper, and this can oxidize in the water and turn it green. This can be fixed by adding an appropriate metal remover according to directions.

You may need to repeat some of these steps to get the water clear.
Test your water again and make any appropriate adjustments to the chemistry.
It is essential you keep a close eye on your pool over the next few weeks. Keep a close eye on what the water looks like, test the water on a regular basis and take appropriate action as soon as you can to fix any anomalies.

If you have any questions, feel free to contact our friendly team at Best Pool Supplies, we will be more than happy to provide advice.

Did you know you can save money by using our handy Chemical Pack Builder to put together an order with exactly what you need to keep your pool clean all year round?

Simply click the button below then you can add the chemicals you need and the savings will be calculated and displayed on the page. You can get free shipping and save up to 20%.

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How To Look After Your Salt Chlorinator Cell

May 12, 2022January 18, 2022 by admin

Although the cells provided by Best Pool Supplies are manufactured from high-quality materials with longevity in mind, over time the electrolysis will wear out the cell coating which will result in the electrodes stopping producing chlorine.

Here are some handy hints that help you to prolong the life span of your salt chlorinator cell:

Don’t overwork your salt cell – running the chlorinator at 100% output or longer than 8 hours a day will shorten its life.
Use Conditioner or Stabilizer to protect your chlorine from breaking up in the UV of the sun which will again prevent overworking your salt cell.
Keep proper pH balance. PH level below 7.2 will etch the salt cell, and if above 7.6 will reduce the chlorine’s effectiveness. To reduce the PH use pool acid or dry acid and raise the PH using soda ash.
Maintain proper salt level in the pool. Low salt levels will destroy the coating of the electrodes and high salt levels will overload the chlorinator.
Inspect the cell regularly and once you notice scale build-up on the electrodes clean it with an appropriate Salt Cell Cleaner.

Calcium deposit (formation of scale) is one of the main reasons for premature failure of the chlorinator electrode. The scale on the electrodes will reduce the chlorine production, restrict the flow of the water, and if not addressed it will put an unnecessary strain not only on the cell but also on the powerpack and can cause damage to both.

It is important to check the cell and clean the electrodes from the scale when it becomes necessary. How quickly calcium builds up on electrode(s) varies from pool to pool and depends on various factors:

Your geographic location – areas with hard water and when bore water is used the scale forms quite quickly.
The pool finish – calcium from the pool plaster (concrete pools) or grouts (tiled pools) can raise the calcium levels of the pool water.
Pool chemicals – super chlorinating with calcium hypochlorite affect pool water calcium content.
Unbalanced PH level of the water plays role in calcium build-up on the electrodes.
Incorrect salt level.

If your chlorinator is non-self-cleaning (does not reverse polarity) it is advisable to check the cell once a week (even more often during summer months). If the milky white substance starts to appear on the electrode(s) you know it is time to give the cell a clean.

These days most new chlorinators on the market are self-cleaning. These units avoid scale build-up on the electrodes by reversing the polarity between the electrodes, repelling mineral deposits, which are washed away by the pool water rushing through the cell housing before they can attach to the oppositely charged electrode.

Even if the chlorinator is self-cleaning, the cell still needs to be cleaned roughly once every 6 months (more often in hard water areas). Many of these intelligent units advise you when it is time to clean the cell and warn about the low salt level in the pool water as well.

To clean the salt chlorinator cell:

Switch off the chlorinator and remove the cell from the housing following manufacturer instructions.

If the scale layer is not very heavy the deposits can be washed away with a garden hose. (NB! Do not brush the electrodes or scrape with sharp objects.)
If the above does not help, it is needed to soak the cell in a suitable cleaning solution like Salt Chlorinator Cleaner or self-mixed acid solution. To prepare acid solution mix 1 part of Pool Acid (Hydrochloric Acid) with 5 parts of water in the bucket. Submerge the cell into the solution for 3-5 minutes. If it takes longer than 5 minutes to clean the cell it is an indication that the electrodes should be cleaned more frequently.
Put the cell back into cell housing.

NB! Always take extra care when handling chemicals and store them out of the reach of children.

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How To Clean Your Pool Filter Cartridge In Six Easy Steps

February 1, 2022December 16, 2021 by admin

Clean Your Pool Filter Cartridge

With a little bit of elbow grease, you could prolong the lifespan of your pool filter cartridge using this guide. Without minimal maintenance, your pool cartridge will develop a blockage in the element and strain your pump, reducing its lifespan.

But don’t worry, looking after your cartridge filter element is easy if you follow this step-by-step guide.

When should I clean my pool filter cartridge?

Like a car, you can get away with not maintaining your filter for a while, but eventually, it will catch up with you. One day, you might find your filter has stopped working and your water has gone filthy, forcing you to buy a replacement.

Therefore, we recommend cleaning your filter element every two weeks or a fortnight. If you want to throw caution to the wind when it comes to maintenance, then make sure you at least take action after the following scenarios:

After a party/gathering

When friends or family visit to enjoy your pool, your cartridge will be working overtime to keep conditions clean and safe. However, this also means excessive debris will be trapped, building up and affecting future use.

After algae treatment

As a pool owner, you will likely have to treat algae build up at least once in your lifetime. Typically, you will need a chemical like Zodiac Pool Algaecide to brush the algae away.

Some people don’t realise that the algae debris is being sucked into the pool filtration system and clogging up your element. For this reason, it is vital that you clean your cartridge as your final algae treatment job.

After excess operation pressure

Have a look at your filter canister housing and take note of the PSI. Now consult your filter owners manual for the regular operation pressure. If the PSI is 8 PSI above the normal operating pressure, you will need to clean your cartridge. Why? Because the filter element is blocked and increasing the water pressure in your set-up. Instead of manually checking for build-up constantly, this little trick will save you time and energy.

How to clean your filter

Turn off your pump. For safety reasons, if you are using an automated system, turn off your pool at the mains power. If the pump suddenly turns on while your fingers are inside the filter component, you could get hurt.
Remove the filter element. This is located inside the filter housing – check the product manual for specific guidelines.
Clean the debris. Don’t rush this step – thoroughly rinse the filter inside and out between the pleats with a garden hose. Products like the Water Wand(see below) save time by cleaning between the crevasses of eight pleats at a time.
Blow-dry the element. Once the element is dry, use compressed air to remove small dirt particles.
Degrease. This step is the premium “car wash” option and is not necessary unless you want optimal performance from your pool filter. If you choose to use a degreaser every time you clean your cartridge, you will guarantee your filters effectiveness and lifespan. Soaking the cartridge in an approved cleaning solution will remove body fats, sunscreen, and other oils.
Reassemble. Now that your filter components are nice and shiny, it’s time to return them inside the filter tank. This may require reassembling any attachments you previously dismantled. Firmly set the top portion of the filter tank back into place and tightly close the clamping mechanism. Turn the air release valve back to the closed position and turn on the pump to ensure the normal functioning of your pool filtration system. Bonus points – apply a silicon-based lubricant around the clamping mechanism to extend its life.

Water Wand – Swimming Pool And Spa Cartridge Filter Cleaner

What to NOT to do while cleaning your cartridge

Don’t use a stiff brush. Cleaning pleats with a hard material may permanently damage them. Use a soft-bristle or a purpose-made brush designed to gently remove debris found in the material folds.

Don’t use a power washer. Filter cartridges are often made of paper or a fine material and are therefore sensitive. The intensity of a power washer can quickly erode the mesh material down, reducing its effectiveness.

Don’t expect a white mesh. The most important sign of a clean filter is the absence of debris or excessive build-up that can block the filter system. Some discolouration is natural and it is unlikely you will achieve that factory white colour without buying a brand new filter cartridge.

How do I know when it is time to replace the filter element?

As we mentioned previously, filter elements are made from thin materials to catch fine debris. Therefore, they cannot last forever. The shelf life for a standard filter in a pool or spa is between 6 – 8 months. For this reason, we recommend replacing your filter element at least once a year.

A good sign that your filter cartridge element is ready for replacement is when your operating pressure does not drop after cleaning the filter (see six easy steps above). This is because your filter has become too obscured to be effective, even when cleaned.

If you heed the warning, you will begin to find excessive debris and cloudy or dirty pool water. Not very nice, especially if guests are visiting. The longer you go without replacing your filter element, the more contaminated water will be allowed to pass through your filtration system. So don’t keep your filter cartridges forever.

Bonus points – you have already opened up your filter assembly for a clean, why not do a visual inspection on the whole unit while you’re at it? Even small tears can be disastrous for water filtration efficiency. So, check for cracks in the plastic housing, tears in the pleats, or other signs of damage. Contact your manufacturers documentation for warranty information and a support phone number.

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Salt Chlorinators And Chlorine Levels In The Pool Water

May 12, 2022April 2, 2017 by admin

We get many inquiries from the pool owners about the chlorine levels in their pool after they install a new chlorinator or replacement cell. It is not uncommon to have different chlorine levels at different water tests. So what determines the chlorine levels in the pool and why can the chlorine levels be different when there is no change in the setup?

Salt levels: It is quite obvious that we need to have a proper salt level for the chlorinator to operate. If you have changed the chlorinator make sure that the salt levels are adjusted to the new unit. Different brands and models of salt chlorinators often work at different salinity levels.

Phosphates: If the phosphate levels are high (together with warm weather and high pool use) the chlorine might be used up by fighting algae at the rate it is produced by the chlorinator. The pool does not have to be green. Phosphates are food that stimulates algae growth. The result is that you can be left with less than the desirable amount of chlorine in your pool. In other words – the algae are killed by produced chlorine but there is not much chlorine left afterward. Recommended phosphate levels in the pool water are below 200 ppb.

Stabiliser: The chlorine gets broken down fast by UV. The way to stop this is to use stabiliser which acts as a sunscreen for the pool water. Recommended stabiliser levels are 30 -50 ppm.

PH: Chlorine is more effective when the PH is low. For obvious reasons, we can not have the pool water lower than neutral, as low PH will be corrosive to equipment and cause skin irritation. The closer we keep PH levels to neutral the better chlorine disinfection we will get. For example, at 7.4 (neutral PH) chlorine is roughly 50% effective and at 8.0 it is only about 20% effective (see chart below). Meaning – the higher the PH the more chlorine is being used in sanitation process and less of it is left in the water.

Testing time: The chlorine readings in your pool water differ depending on the testing time. For example, if you collected the test water in the morning when the chlorinator just stopped working the chlorine reading will be considerably higher than if you take the sample in the afternoon when the pool has been exposed to UV and bathers all day and all the chlorine has already been used before the chlorinator starts working again in the evening.

Test accuracy: If you test chlorine yourself at home make sure that the reagents are not expired and that they have been kept in dry cool place out of sunlight. Expired reagents can cause incorrect chlorine readings.

To determine whether the chlorinator works properly make sure that the salt levels are correct, balance total alkalinity and PH and assure that the phosphate levels are below 200 ppb. Then run the chlorinator overnight at 100% output and take the water sample in the morning. If you still read low or no chlorine levels, then there most likely is a problem with your chlorinator or the electrolytic cell.